Now, I apologise for the lack of posts recently, it appears life has gotten in the way, but I'm going to try and kickstart these posts again.
One reason why life has got in the way, is that I've just returned from a week's long climbing trip in Kalymnos.
Now, over the week, I climbed harder, more routes and longer routes than when I first visited the island 2 years ago.
Yet I've been climbing less than I was prior to the first visit.
So, what's changed?
Firstly, I think knowledge of the island helps and the style of routes, therefore I was able to pace myself better and set some clear goals for the trip - of which I achieved.
Why did I achieve them? Because they were clear, concise, and realistic.
Secondly, I'm cardio-vascularly fitter than I was last trip, due to doing a little more running and cycling of late. This has meant that a) the walk-ins haven't knackered me out before I've even started and b) I've recovered quicker and easier on those longer routes
This, combined with bouldering more, I've been able to complete harder moves on routes by viewing them as boulder problems and then making use of the rests on the routes.
Utilising all these methods also meant I didn't get injured, meaning I could climb every day and succeed in achieving my goals, and have a good holiday!
So, in summary, I think it's important in climbing, as with lots of other sports:
1. Set clear goals, make them SMART (Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Realistic, Timed)
2. Cross-train; i.e. do other activities/sports, not just climbing to ensure an all-round fitness. This applies to climbing different disciplines too, i.e. bouldering can help succeed on the harder moves on trad routes, etc
That's all I have to say this week, but there will definitely be two posts coming very soon, one on amputees in sport, the second will follow the next BMC Climbing Injuries Symposium